16.4.13

Tokyo #14: Sushi Dai

Sushi: the Breakfast of Bleary Eyed Champions!
Having failed to see the tuna auction we waited, in the pre-dawn twilight, outside the tiny shop-front of Sushi Dai. It was a little chilly at 5am but we were warmed by our anticipation of sampling some of the freshest fish from right beside Tsukiji market. Our guide and host, K-san, assured us of great Ginza style sushi, normally costing a small fortune, but the best bang-for-buck in town because it was so close to the supplier and so small and pokey. We cued for a mere 40 minutes and got seated before 6am at the counter by the window where, by pure luck, the master chef entertained us while conjuring the much anticipated fishy morsels.

First off the sushi line-up was the full fat tuna belly (O-toro). Dwarfing the hand rolled sushi rice it sat on, the generous slice of tuna had more marbled veins of white fatty fish goodness than meat. As I slid the whole thing into my mouth I was unsure if my mouth was watering from anticipation or the tuna fat goodness. Yuuuuummy!

Next up was flounder with wasabi , the sushi master chef finished the next piece with a single drop of sudatchi deftly squeezed from a tiny wedge of the citrus. He smiled brightly as he cheerfully popped the next piece on the tiny wooden ledge used for eating off. His admonishment of 'no sauce' was gentle but a clear warning to trust his 20 plus years of experience making sushi. A moment's cynical hesitation, then I put the whole thing my my mouth and chewed. I watched Jing's eyes widen in delight and felt my own brows mirroring hers as our tastebuds were assaulted by the barrage of flavours. Opening with a jab of sourness, then a powerful umami cross followed by a subtle faints of sweet and salty (from the flavoured rice) so when your guard is down a fiery wasabi uppercut sends you rocking. 'Plain old' white fish shouldn't be this exciting to eat!

Red snapper (Tai) was meaty and subtly sweet.

Sea Urchin (Uni) creamy and very rich umami pairs up well with the contrasting sweet and salty crunch of nori.

Lightly marinating the tuna (Magurozuke) brought out a gorgeous deep red colour to the fish. Another huge piece of tuna gladly goes down the hatch.

The Red clam (Akagai) was woken up by giving it a loud sharp smack just before serving (see video for the results)

Horse mackerel (Aji) with chives - beautifully silver and blushing red it was nearly too big to fit in my mouth in one go. It was surprisingly unfishy and smooth and the oiliness was cut by the tang of chives; one of my favourites.

The Baby shrimps (Shira-Ebe) were seasonal treats. Looking likes tiny brains they tasted much nicer and sweeter.

Baby squid sushi wrapped in nori with grated ginger. Another even more seasonal treat; these babies were only available for 2 months of the year. We got them while they were innocent, young and juicy!


Four maki rolls of fish eggs and tuna

Egg omlette (tamago) rolled and layered in the the traditional way using a square frying pan

Baby abalone (awabi)  - Eating a third type of baby fish felt just a tad threatening to the local marine ecology but what the hell, it tasted sooo right!

Finally, the last piece of sushi which you are allowed to choose freely. K-san and Jing went with the Chef's recommedation of swordfish (me-kajiki, 目梶木) and were not disappointed.

By the time we left the sun was blazing its way across the fresh blue morning sky and the que was trailing around the corner. At 40 minutes per seating of 13 persons, that's a 4 hour wait for the sushi addicts a the end. As we wandered past into the heart of Tsukiji market, never for a moment did I think they would regret the wait.



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Sushi Dai
Omakase course, ¥3,900
Tsukiji Market Part 6 Bldg. 5-2-1 Tsukiji-shijo, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo #15: Tsukiji Fish Market

Fast and furious fish everywhere! 

15.4.13

Tokyo #13: Fugu @ Shunpanro 春帆楼

One of H's holy-food-grails was to survive eating fugu (aka pufferfish); well know in culinary circles for the special preparation needed to remove it's deadly poison. He was clearly disappointed by the anti-climatic experience which, while interestingly chewy, was decidedly non-fatal. 
The Fugu at this tiny, 4-seater restaurant in the basement of Takashimaya Nihonbashi comes flown in from Shimonoseki and was very reasonably priced. We watched the chef prepare the sashimi while we ate the different parts of the fish cooked in various ways. We opted for one of each set meal. A porridge set where fugu sashimi with fugu soup is served first then later the fugu rice porridge, pickles and jellied fugu (below, right)
The other Shimonoseki set was made up of sashimi, grilled fugu, pickles, rice, jelly and soup (above). Afterwards we learned that the special licensing requirement previously required to legally prepare and serve fugu was being abolished since nearly all current legal supplies were from farmed non-poisonous fugu stock. We were glad that we didn't pay extortionate prices found elsewhere! 


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Name: Shunpanro 春帆楼
Address: In the corner of B1 Takashimaya Nihonbashi 2-4-1, 東京都中央区日本橋2-4-1  高島屋東京店B1
Opening hours: 10:00~20:00
Website: http://www.shunpanro.com/index.html (in Japanese) 
Prices: 3000 Yen average per set.

Tokyo #12

Tokyo hearts me! #swag, :P

Tokyo #11: Gion Tokuya, ぎおん徳屋

Our friend, S-san bought us to Gion Tokuya for dessert. I love the fold-out menu with its pretty illustrations!


On the left, the daily special of shaved ice with Japanese milk tea, nuts, chocolate topping and soft mochi. 
S-san's Mochiyaki zenzai which consists of red bean soup with pickled Japanese basil seeds and mochi, rice sticks that you grill to your fancy. Behind is H's Isobe-yaki; mochi with soy sauce, seaweed and Japanese tea. 

It was our first time having such beautifully presented Japanese desserts in lovely company, thank you S-san!


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Address: 2-31-12 Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo
Opening hours: Weekdays 12:00~20:00, Weekends and holidays 11:00~20:00
Website: http://www.united-arrows.jp/harajuku/womens/tokuya/index.html (in Japanese)

Tokyo #10: b-mobile Visitor SIM

For our 2 week long travel in Japan, we used the b-mobile Visitor SIM 1 GB prepaid as we required 3G mostly for Google maps usage as Japan can be notoriously hard to navigate, especially for tourists.

We opted for the Airport Pickup Service, which was simple enough, the airport post office was even open on a Sunday! Just make sure you pick the correct airport terminal from which you arrive at, Narita Airport kindly provides a list of various airlines here.
Apart from the inital setup, the 3G was fast, consistent and we had great coverage in Tokyo and Kyoto.

However, I found the b-mobile user manual setup instuctions quite inadquate so here's a more helpful guide for iPhone4S (iOS6.1.3).

To edit APN settings on an iphone4S,
Go to Settings > General > Mobile Data (scoll to the bottom) > Mobile Date Network
Enter the following information:
APN : bmobile.ne.jp
Username : bmobile@fr
Password : bmobile


After that, you should be connected to JP Docomo's 3G. やった!Yatta!

Do stick to the list of supported devices as provided by b-mobile Japan! We tried to use H's unlisted HTC Desire S to connect initally (as we find google maps app works best on android systems) but we simply could not connect until we switched to an iphone4S. Thankfully, the b-mobile Visitor SIM supports tethering!

Other free wifi options I found were:
1) NTT East's Free Wifi Japan for tourists.
A free option if you're going to be in central Tokyo for less than 14 days. We were told to go to Akihabara to pick the free wifi card but unfortunately, ran out of time to make it out there and try it.
Let me know if you try this service! Would love to know how many access points there are and how well it connects.

2) Free Wifi at Starbucks Japan
Register at http://starbucks.wi2.co.jp/pc/index_en.html
I would register for it before leaving for Japan as you need to complete registeration within 24 hours via a link sent through a confirmation email. Oh, and please do buy a coffee at least for the services!

14.4.13

Tokyo #09: Ramen @ 札幌みその

Our lovely host, K-san took us to his favourite ramen haunt near Umejima and it was the best miso ramen
 we had the entire trip! 680 Yen for a bowl of おいしい happiness! (((o(*゚▽゚*)o)))


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Name: 札幌みその 梅島店
Address:  Tokyo Adachi Chuohon town 1-11-3東京都足立区中央本町1-11-3
Opening hours: 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:00 
Website: http://tabelog.com/tokyo/A1324/A132404/13123584/  (in Japanese)

Tokyo #07: Greetings again!

Again, in the wonderful Tokyo.

8.4.13

Scotland #16: Glen Coe

Snow-capped mountains and frozen lakes in the Scottish spring. When is this winter ever going to end?!